New models from Bulgari and Arnold & Son have different ways of indicating the hour.
People are traveling again, and two new world-time watches — models that simultaneously indicate the hour in the 24 main time zones — might help with their journeys.
Arnold & Son updated its 2018 Globetrotter, a model known for its signature bridge that arches across the dial, spanning a sculptural, lacquered representation of the land masses, mountains and oceans of the Northern Hemisphere, with the 45-millimeter Globetrotter Gold, available in 18-karat red gold and limited to 28 pieces ($45,900). There also are two new stainless steel models, one with an opalescent dial and the other in blue.
Bulgari’s recent entry in the field is the Octo Roma WorldTimer. To keep the case at 11.35 millimeters, or less than half an inch, the watch features a new integrated movement with 261 components, rather than the traditional layered arrangement. The WorldTimer is priced at $8,550 and comes in stainless steel and steel DLC, a diamond-like carbon coating.
The first world-time watch came out in 1931, said Jack Forster, editor in chief of the watch website Hodinkee, when “Louis Cottier created a movement showing the time in 24 different time zones. It is pretty much the template for modern world time watches.”
As for the Arnold & Son and Bulgari models, Mark Bernardo, senior editor of WatchTime magazine, said, “Each of these watches brings a novel take to the category,” noting that most world time watches have rings labeled with city names surrounding the dial.
The Bulgari watch has that design, a double rotating disc on the inner edge of the bezel: one with a 24-hour graduated scale and the other for the 24 cities.
But not just any old city would do. “Rather than to display the usual classical 24 cities (for the 24 time zones), we selected a few locations where Bulgari has or will have a hotel, like Rome, for instance,” Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s product creation executive director, wrote in an email. “And since we all seek the sun and glamour, we picked St. Barts, the Maldives and Cabo Verde as other locations!”
The Arnold & Son watch tells time in a different manner. “Rather than reading the time zone on a city ring, with the Arnold, you’re reading it on the globe,” Mr. Bernardo said. The red hands indicate local time; world time can be determined by imagining a longitude line intersecting the location on the map and the 24-hour ring that surrounds it.
The globe shows the Northern Hemisphere, not the South, because it “is where the majority of the world’s land masses are, and where most of the world’s population lives,” so it’s where most of potential customers reside, Mr. Forster said. (Although Arnold & Sons could customize a Globetrotter for the southern sphere, said Bertrand Savary, the brand’s chief executive.)
The latest Globetrotter also was redesigned; its signature bridge was put on a diet to make the watch “more open and elegant,” Mr. Savary said. The newly slim arc, he continued, “symbolizes the ability of travel to build a bridge between countries, to reunite people, family, friends or business associates.”
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October 22, 2021 at 04:00PM
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